Monday, September 1, 2008

Sprung for Spring Hill


In the last few years, West Seattle has started to shed its sleepy reputation and evolved into a distinct and vibrant neighborhood. Nowhere is that more noticeable than along the Junction; home to some of West Seattle's best restaurants and shops to check out. Spring Hill is a welcome addition to the strip.

Located at California and Oregon (funny cross streets... maybe call it Jefferson Junction?), Spring Hill comes to us from Mark Fuller and his wife Marjorie. Mark's a graduate of the renowned Culinary Institute of America and served as the head chef at Tom Douglas' Dahlia Lounge. Mark moved on to open Spring Hill to showcase his take on the haul that the Pacific Northwest and all points north could provide. With glowing recent reviews, a visit to Spring Hill was on the docket.

The theme of the menu is geared towards all the great stuff that is available to us locally. Shellfish from Washington, beef from Oregon, fish from Alaska, all are meant to utilize the bounty of our local farmers and fishermen. Armed with this knowledge, we were excited and curious from the local buzz, we looked forward to our dinner at Spring Hill.

The small dishes we started with were the bread & butter and the beef hot & cold. Warm, fresh rolls with a butter spiked with sea salt. Sounds basic and simple, but the taste is anything but. Too bad it wasn't on the house. The beef steak hot & cold was a fun idea; hot side is a grilled piece of ribeye with a strong, smoky flavor; the cold side is raw steak tartare and it's explosion of beefy flavor. All in all, off to a nice start.

The next dish that came to us were a pair of Kushi oysters and Olympia oysters. We love oysters, which is funny, because growing up I couldn't stand them. Now? Give me more. Both oysters were small in size, but that's not a bad thing with oysters; with the potential for so much flavor, don't hold the size against them. We knew Olympia from our experience having them from Mashiko's down the street, and they delivered their briny goodness. Kushi we knew less about, but it's already vaulted to our favorite bivalve. The brine is nice, but the finish is where it's at; creamy, buttery, and awesome. If you see these on a menu, order them.

The Manila clams were excellent as well. In the dish was diced pork belly and lemon mayo. The olive oil grilled bread was a nice touch and great for dipping. The key to any good clam or mussel dish is the broth. And this one was great. A bit of spice and great flavor from all the ingredients. Two courses down, main course to go.

Out came the trout. The trout was nice; soft, sweet and subtle flavor. The skin was nice and crisp too. Don't be afraid to have fish skin! However the highlight of the dish wasn't the fish (although quite good), it was the spaetzle. They call it 'crispy little dumplings'. And it was awesome. This was a nice dish, get a good-sized portion of fish and the dumplings.

I love duck. It's sweet, juicy and full of flavor; it's something I'll always order if I see it on a menu. Spring Hill does the bird justice. It's a duck breast that's been sliced and is suitably undercooked, perfect for duck. The brightness of the orange mustard sauce was a nice touch. Great flavor and perfectly prepared. And the quinoa biscuit that comes with it? Genius! This was really good. Luckily you get a side of duck with it.

As for dessert? Sadly, wasn't able to partake in dessert this evening. With a couple of courses already, a bottle of Lange Pinot Noir and a fair share of starch, we limped across the finish line. but the race was definitely worth it.

If you find yourself looking to have a great dinner, make a date to go check out Mark Fuller's talent on full display at Spring Hill. I have no doubt that it will evolve into one of the finest restaurants in Seattle and is the fountainhead for the neighborhood. Much as Canlis represents the best of Queen Anne, Cafe Juanita to Kirkland, Sitka & Spruce to Eastlake; Spring Hill will represent the best of West Seattle.




Photo courtesy of Ross Mantle and The Seattle Times

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